Panama was not originally high on my list of places to visit. We were coming from Colombia, and it seemed like a logical stop before heading home. I knew almost nothing about the country before we arrived, including the fact that U.S. dollars are used there.

The one place I am looking forward to returning to is San Blas.

Officially known as Guna Yala, the region sits along Panama’s Caribbean coast and is made up of hundreds of islands—many no more than a small strip of sand, a few palm trees, and water in every shade of blue. The Guna people have autonomy over the area, and it feels distinctly separate from the rest of the country.

Getting There Is Part of the Experience

Our day began around 5:00 in the morning, when an SUV picked us up in Panama City along with other travelers from a collection of hotels and hostels. After a stop for snacks, supplies, and beer, we headed toward the Caribbean.

The drive took roughly three hours—slow, winding, and rough enough that I was very happy when it ended. The scenery was beautiful, but the road was not exactly forgiving. Before reaching the coast, we stopped at a Guna checkpoint, a reminder that we were entering a region with its own leadership and laws; be sure to have your passport handy. 

At the port, our luggage was loaded into a small boat, and we headed out across the water. About 45 minutes later, our island came into view.

It was exactly the kind of place you hope exists but are not entirely sure you will find anymore: white sand, clear water, palm trees, and no sign of a large resort or built-up shoreline.

Our Small Island Home

The island itself was only a few hundred yards long. You could walk the entire beach in about ten minutes.

There were local homes and communal buildings near the middle of the island, a basic bathroom area at one end, and a row of simple cabanas at the other. We chose the slightly upgraded version of basic: our own cabana rather than one of the shared dorms.

The cabana had a thatched roof, bamboo walls, a sand floor, and two beds raised above the ground. There were no locks and no electricity during the day. It was simple, but it was perfect for where we were.

There was not much to do on the island, which was exactly the point. No television, no dependable internet, and no pressure to make a plan. Just the water, the breeze, and enough time to finally slow down. It was the kind of place that makes you remember why we travel in the first place.

A Different Island Every Day

Not long after we arrived, our local Guna guide, Ian—small in stature but big on personality—gathered everyone and sent us back out on the boat to explore.

Each day brought a different island. I do not think we ever knew exactly where we were going, but every stop had its own appeal: a wide, empty beach, a small sandbar, shallow water for swimming, or a tiny island with just enough room for a few palms.

The islands were remarkably pristine. There were moments when it felt as though we were looking at a version of the Caribbean that had mostly disappeared elsewhere.

By midday, our guides would prepare lunch, usually with cold drinks and whatever fresh local food was available. We would return to our island by midafternoon with plenty of time to swim, read, journal, play cards, nap in a hammock, or simply sit and watch the light change.

The food was basic but good. At night, the generator came on for a few hours, bringing lights and music to the island. It was enough time for everyone to get to know one another before the place went quiet again.

Life Without the Usual Distractions

We stayed for three days and two nights, and I could easily have stayed longer.

For me, the best part was how little was required. There was no itinerary to manage, no need to be connected, and no sense that we were missing something by doing nothing. The days were shaped by boat rides, meals, swimming, and sunsets.

There are certainly more luxurious ways to visit San Blas, but our simple cabana-and-shared-boat experience felt right. It was just enough roughing it to make the place feel real, without taking away from why we were there in the first place.

A Final Look at Guna Yala

On the way back to the mainland, we stopped at a larger island where much of the Guna population lives. It happened to be high-school graduation day, and seeing families gathered for the occasion was one of the unexpected highlights of the trip.

San Blas is beautiful enough to make anyone want to visit. But it is more than a collection of postcard-perfect islands. It is the home of the Guna people, whose culture and autonomy are central to what makes the region feel so distinct.

Our time there was not long enough to fully understand the place, but it was enough to know I am going back, as part of our next trip.  For quiet, uncomplicated beauty, San Blas is hard to beat.

See the San Blas, Panama print and more coastal work in the Gate 58 Water & Mountains collection.

Happy Travels!